Picture framing is the process of encasing a photograph, artwork, or memorabilia in a structure (the frame) for display, preservation, and protection. Frames not only enhance the visual appeal of your piece but also shield it from dust, moisture, and physical damage. High-quality framing can make artwork stand out in your space and preserve it for generations.

Picture rails are horizontal moldings installed near the upper part of a wall, traditionally used to hang pictures without damaging the wall surface. Picture rails can be installed under the ceilings or against the vertical walls. They originate from Victorian and Edwardian homes and are making a comeback due to their practicality and aesthetic appeal. Picture rails allow you to rearrange or switch out art easily, offering a flexible solution for both homes and galleries. Picture rails blend seamlessly with contemporary decor and can even be painted to match your wall or trim color. Their functionality and style have led many interior designers to reintroduce them in modern spaces, offering both practical and decorative advantages.

Quick look at the benefits of using picture rails: No wall damage: Hang pictures via hooks and cords, avoiding nails or screws in the wall. Flexibility: Easily move and adjust artwork without tools or patching holes. Historic charm: Adds architectural interest and elegance to both modern and period homes. Ideal for renters: Make changes without risking your security deposit.

Selecting the right picture rails to display your artworks involves considering several key factors to ensure both aesthetic appeal and secure hanging. Access Your Artworks Weight: This is paramount. Picture rails and their associated hooks and cords have weight capacities. Lightweight: Small prints, photos, thin canvases, framed prints, and stretched canvases of moderate size (e.g., 10 kg). Mediumweight: Large framed pieces, heavy canvases, and moderate-size mirrors (e.g., 10-30 kg). Heavy: Large framed mirrors, ornate framed pieces, acrylic box frames (e.g., 30-70 kg). Superheavy: Large carpets, very large framed artworks or sculptures, etc. (e.g., over 100kg) Always err on the side of caution and choose a system with a higher weight capacity than you think you need. Look for the manufacturer's specifications for each component (rail, cord, hook). Size and Number: Do you have many small pieces for a gallery wall or a few large statement pieces? Larger pieces often require two hangers for stability and to sit closer to the wall. Consider if you'll be hanging multiple pieces in vertical columns. Hanging parts and accessories Make sure the picture-hanging parts and accessories selected and used can handle the weight of the artworks you are going to display. These parts and accessories are able to be adjusted/moved easily for the adjustment of the artworks' positions. It will be a bonus if there are varieties of parts and accessories in the picture display system to accommodate for different applications, e.g., hanging acrylic panels, bicycles, etc. Location for the rail installation Picture rails can be installed under the ceiling and against the wall surface. They can be installed in existing and new spaces and premises. A concealed picture rail installation can be achieved with a well-designed and planned fit-out right from the beginning. It’s also important to measure the wall space accurately and plan the layout to determine the correct rail length. Additionally, think about adjustability; our rails allow for flexible positioning of art, providing versatility if you frequently update your displays. If you need personalized assistance, our expert team is available to guide you through the selection process to ensure you pick the perfect rails that best meet your exhibit's needs. Elevate your art display with elegance by choosing the right picture rails at Gorgeous Creation Lt.

Picture rails can be installed under the ceiling and against the wall surface. They can be installed in existing and new spaces and premises. A concealed picture rail installation can be achieved with a well-designed and planned fit-out right from the beginning. If the picture rails are to be retrofitted into your existing premises, e.g., home, office, or gallery, they are to be surface mounted. However, if the space is undergoing renovation, you may be able to conceal the picture rails with the appropriate fit-outs and recesses. You can install picture rails yourself or hire a professional. Generally, the rails are mounted horizontally around the room, several inches below the ceiling. Use a level, mark your desired height, and secure the rails to wall studs with appropriate hardware. Some modern rails are designed for easy, tool-free installation and can be adhered with strong adhesives.

Yes. Picture rails can be installed on most wall types, though the installation method and hardware may vary. For plaster, concrete, or brick, pre-drilling and wall anchors are recommended. For drywall (gypsum board), use wall studs (if available) and/or drywall anchors for secure mounting. Still beware of the weight limitation on drywall installations, as in most cases, drywalls are not load-bearing.

Artwork is hung from picture rails / tracks with special hooks that rest on the rail (rail attachments) and wires that attach to the artwork's frame. You can adjust the height and position easily and hang multiple pieces from a single rail for gallery-style arrangements.

Wall Preservation: Picture rails eliminate the need to drive nails or hooks directly into walls, preventing unsightly holes, chips, or cracks. This is especially valuable in historic homes or for renters who must avoid permanent alterations. Flexibility and Ease of Arrangement: With picture rails, adjusting the height, position, or arrangement of artwork becomes a simple task. Art can be swapped, layered, or repositioned without additional tools or damage, encouraging creative and dynamic displays. Elegant Presentation: Cords, wires, or hooks suspended from the rails give artwork a floating effect and lend a classic, gallery-like ambiance to any room. The visual continuity of pictures hung at a unified height can also enhance the sense of order and sophistication. Protection for Artwork: By enabling artwork to hang slightly away from the wall surface, picture rails can help minimize exposure to moisture or dust that may collect along the base. This slight separation further safeguards frames and art from accidental bumps or scuffs. Adaptability to Changing Tastes: Because art can be rearranged at will, picture rails support evolving collections and tastes. Whether you acquire new pieces, host exhibitions, or simply wish to refresh your décor, the system is inherently adaptable. Historical and Aesthetic Value: In period homes, picture rails are often an original architectural detail. Retaining or installing picture rails can preserve historical authenticity and add period charm, while also complementing modern or eclectic interiors.

Applications are only limited by our imagination and creativity.

The color of the mat is just as important as its size. Mats are available in hundreds of hues, textures, and surface finishes, from smooth whites and creams to textured linens and bold colors. When choosing a mat color, consider: Complementary Colors: Picking up subtle tones from the artwork can create a cohesive look. Neutral Tones: Whites, off-whites, and blacks are timeless and versatile, often used in galleries and museums. Multiple Mats: Using more than one mat—such as a colored inner mat with a neutral outer mat—can add depth and sophistication.

Frames come in a variety of materials, including wood, metal, acrylic, and composite. Each offers a different look and level of durability. Styles range from ornate, traditional moldings to simple and sleek minimalism. Frame finishes include stained, painted, or natural wood, metallics, matte or gloss, and more.

Consider the following: Style: Match the frame to your decor and the mood of the piece. For example, a classic oil painting may suit a carved wood frame, while a modern photograph might look best in a slim metal frame. Color: Choose complementary or neutral tones that enhance your artwork rather than overpower it. Size: The frame should fit the piece precisely, leaving even margins if a mat is used. Oversized frames can be dramatic, while minimal frames let the art shine.

Matting is the use of a cardboard or cotton-based border between your artwork and the frame glass. It provides visual space, prevents direct contact with the glass, and can highlight colors within the piece. Mats come in many colors and thicknesses and are recommended for both aesthetic and protective reasons. At its core, mat board is a sturdy, flat board made from paper or cotton pulp, cut with a window opening through which the artwork is displayed. It is placed between the glass (or acrylic glazing) and the artwork itself. The mat creates a margin or border around the art, which can be customized in size, width, shape, and color. The primary purposes of mat board in picture framing are: Protection: Mat board separates the artwork from direct contact with the glass or acrylic. This spacing helps prevent damage from condensation, sticking, or possible mold growth, all of which can occur if artwork is pressed flush against glazing over time. Aesthetics: Mats provide a visual boundary that draws the viewer’s eye toward the artwork. They can complement, contrast, or highlight colors and elements within the piece, making the presentation more compelling. Structural Support: Mats can help provide additional support for delicate, flexible, or thin works like watercolors, photographs, or prints, helping them stay flat and neat inside the frame.

Not all mat boards are created equal. The materials and construction can vary widely, and the choice of mat can affect both the appearance and longevity of the framed item. Typically made from cotton, wood pulp, or other fibers, mat board comes in various colors, textures, and thicknesses, with common sizes ranging from 1/16 to 1/8 inch (4-ply to 8-ply), with 4-ply (about 1.4 mm) being the most common for standard framing. Standard (Paper or Pulp-Based) Mat Board These mats are made from wood pulp that is chemically processed and then colored. They are widely available and affordable. However, standard mats are typically not acid-free, which means they can yellow, discolor, or damage artworks over time due to acid migration. Acid-Free and Conservation Mat Board To better preserve valuable or sentimental artwork, many framers recommend using acid-free or "conservation" mat boards. These are manufactured to have a neutral pH and are often buffered to resist becoming acidic as they age. They help protect art from yellowing, fading, or other deterioration that can be caused by acids in paper products. Museum Board This is the highest standard of mat board, made entirely from cotton rag or purified alpha-cellulose. Museum boards are completely acid-free, lignin-free, and designed to protect artwork for generations. They are commonly used for precious, historical, or extremely valuable works and meet strict conservation standards.

Mat boards come in various sizes and thicknesses. Typically made from cotton, wood pulp, or other fibers, mat board comes in various colors, textures, and thicknesses, with common sizes ranging from 1/16 to 1/8 inch (4-ply to 8-ply), with 4-ply (about 1.4 mm) being the most common for standard framing. The width of the mat border is a matter of both style and practicality. A wider mat can give a piece more "breathing room," making it stand out, while a narrower mat can feel more contemporary and compact. Standard Mat Board Sheet Sizes Mat boards are manufactured in large sheets, which framers or individuals cut to size. Common sheet sizes include: 32 x 40 inches: The most widely used standard size in North America, suitable for cutting multiple mats for smaller frames or single mats for larger artwork. 40 x 60 inches: Used for oversized artwork or large-scale framing projects. 24 x 36 inches: Less common but available for smaller-scale framing needs. It's important to understand two key measurements: The Overall (Outer) Mat Board Size: This is the size of the mat board itself, which will fit inside your picture frame. It's essentially the same as the frame's glass or opening size. The Mat Opening (Window) Size: This is the cut-out in the mat board through which your artwork or photo will be visible. This opening is always smaller than your artwork to allow the mat to overlap and hold the artwork in place.

A mat board is typically cut with a beveled window, where the opening's edge angles away from the surface, creating a professional look and adding a sense of dimension. Mats can also be cut with straight edges or decorative corners, depending on style preferences. Specialty window shapes—ovals, circles, or custom designs—can be used for unique presentations. The opening is generally cut slightly smaller than the artwork to keep it in place and cover the edges. For archival presentations, the artwork is attached to the back of the mat with acid-free hinges or photo corners, avoiding adhesives on the art itself.

The mat opening is usually cut slightly smaller than the artwork to create a clean border and prevent the artwork from falling through. A common rule of thumb is to cut the opening 1/4" to 1/2" smaller than your artwork's dimensions (e.g., if you have a 5"x7" photo, the opening might be 4.5"x6.5" or 4.75"x6.75"). Important Considerations for Mat Board Sizing: Mat Border Width: The width of the mat border (the space between the artwork and the frame) is a key aesthetic choice. Typical: A 2-3 inch border is common for small to medium artwork. Wider Mats: For a more contemporary or "gallery" look, especially with smaller artworks, wider mats (4+ inches) are popular as they give the artwork more presence. Rule of Thumb: Many framers suggest the mat border should be at least double the width of the frame to prevent the frame from visually overpowering the artwork. Avoid borders less than 1.5 inches wide. Bottom Weighting: Traditionally, the bottom border of the mat is often cut slightly wider than the top and side borders. This is because the human eye tends to perceive evenly spaced borders as "top-heavy," so adding a bit more space at the bottom creates visual balance. Artwork Edge: When ordering a mat, remember that the opening will usually overlap your artwork by about 1/8" to 1/4" on each side. If you want to show the entire piece of paper (including any white borders around your artwork), you need to specify an opening size that matches or is slightly larger than the paper itself.

Beyond simple borders, mat boards offer countless creative possibilities: Double or Triple Matting: Layering mats in different colors or thicknesses creates depth and visual interest. If using two mats, the top mat opening is slightly larger than the bottom to create a "reveal" border, usually 1/4". V-Grooves and Decorative Cuts: Lines cut into the mat add subtle detail for a more tailored appearance. Floated Art: The mat can be cut so that the art appears to "float" above the backing, often with a shadow or space around the edge, ideal for works with deckled or uneven edges. Specialty Mats: Mats can be covered in fabric, textured, or even printed with designs for a unique look.

The art is usually attached to the back of the mat using acid-free materials. Conservation mounting avoids permanent adhesives, instead opting for archival corners, hinges, or Japanese paper and wheat starch paste, ensuring the art can be removed without damage. Here are the main methods for mounting artwork on a mat board, ranging from conservation-friendly to more permanent. Hinging with Archival Tape Hinging is the most widely recommended method for mounting valuable, original, or archival artwork. It's reversible (meaning the artwork can be removed without damage later) and allows the artwork to "breathe" – expand and contract naturally with changes in humidity without buckling. Key Principles of Hinging: Only attach at the top: Artwork is only attached at the top edge, allowing the rest of the piece to hang freely. Taping all four sides can cause buckling as paper expands and contracts. Acid-free materials are essential: Always use archival-quality, acid-free hinging tape or tissue. Brands like Lineco are popular. These often use stable acrylic adhesives or water-activated starch pastes. Weaker than the artwork: The hinge material should be weaker than the artwork itself so that if stress occurs, the hinge breaks before the art tears. Common Hinging Methods: T-Hinge V-Hinge (for float mounting or hidden hinges) Japanese Paper Hinges with Starch Paste Mounting Strips or Photo Corners (Non-Adhesive) These methods are excellent for protecting the artwork, as no adhesive touches the artwork itself. They are fully reversible. Archival Mounting Strips: These are clear polyester (Mylar) sleeves with an adhesive strip on one side. Attach strips: Adhere the adhesive side of the strip to the backing board (or the back of the window mat). Slide artwork in: Slide the edges of your artwork into the clear sleeve. Typically, you'd use two strips along the top edge, or four strips for full support, depending on the artwork's weight. Photo Corners: Traditional photo album corners, but made from archival materials. Attach corners: Adhere the corners to the backing board (or the back of the window mat). Slide artwork in: Slide the artwork into the corner pockets. Best for lighter-weight items. Dry Mounting (Permanent and Non-Archival) Dry mounting uses heat-activated adhesive tissue or pressure-sensitive adhesive boards to permanently bond the artwork to a backing board. Pros: Creates a perfectly flat, wrinkle-free mount. Cons: Not reversible — it's permanent. It is generally not recommended for valuable, original, or archival artwork, as it alters the original condition and can impact value. Over time, some dry mount adhesives can yellow or degrade. Best For: Posters, decorative prints, or non-valuable reproductions where flatness is paramount and reversibility isn't a concern. Wet Mounting (Generally Not Recommended for Artwork) Wet mounting involves applying a liquid adhesive (like PVA glue or wheat paste) directly to the backing board and then adhering the artwork. Pros: Can be very strong. Cons: Very messy, prone to bubbling or warping the artwork if not done perfectly, and almost always non-archival and irreversible. Not suitable for most paper-based artworks due to moisture content. Best For: Specialized applications like mounting canvas to a rigid board, or specific craft projects, but rarely for valuable paper artwork.

Glazing refers to the sheet of transparent material—most commonly glass or acrylic—that is placed over artwork within a picture frame. Its primary function is to shield the artwork from dust, moisture, pollutants, and physical contact. More advanced glazing materials also offer protection from ultraviolet (UV) light, which can cause fading and deterioration over time.

Physical Protection: Glazing acts as a physical barrier, preventing dirt, dust, and accidental spills from reaching the surface of your artwork. Environmental Defense: It helps guard against fluctuations in humidity and temperature, both of which can damage sensitive paper, photographs, and textiles. UV Protection: Many modern glazing products block a significant portion of harmful UV rays, preserving the color and quality of your piece. Prevention of Physical Damage: By shielding the artwork from direct handling, glazing reduces the risk of fingerprints, scratches, or other inadvertent harm. Enhanced Viewing: Specialized glazing can reduce glare and reflections, making it easier to view the artwork under various lighting conditions.

Glazing is recommended for most framing projects, especially those involving works on paper—such as watercolors, drawings, prints, and photographs—as these are particularly vulnerable to environmental damage. Even oil paintings, which are often displayed unglazed due to their textured surfaces, may benefit from glazing in certain high-risk situations, such as public spaces or areas with heavy traffic. You may choose to forgo glazing for aesthetic reasons or for media that require direct exposure to air (such as canvases). However, when preservation and longevity are priorities, glazing is essential.

Do Not Let Glazing Touch the Artwork: Always use a mat or spacer to prevent direct contact, which can cause condensation, sticking, or mold growth. Clean Carefully: Use only approved cleaners and soft cloths. Avoid ammonia-based products, especially on acrylic, which can cloud or damage the surface. Consider Lighting: Place framed pieces away from direct sunlight, even if UV-protective glazing is used, to further minimize fading. Check for Static: When framing works with loose media (pastel, charcoal), opt for anti-static acrylic and take precautions to minimize dust attraction.

In conservation or archival framing, glazing plays a critical role in protecting artwork for the long term. Conservation-grade materials, including UV-filtering glazing and acid-free mats and backing boards, are used to ensure that the artwork is not only displayed beautifully but also preserved for future generations. Many museums and collectors insist on museum glass or optical-grade acrylic for their most precious works.

Glass Standard Glass: The most traditional and widely used material, standard glass is clear, provides good rigidity, and is relatively inexpensive. However, it is heavy, fragile, and typically offers limited UV protection. Non-Glare Glass: Also called anti-reflective glass, this type is etched on one or both sides to diffuse light and minimize reflections. While it helps with glare, it may sometimes impart a slightly cloudy appearance to the artwork. UV-Protective Glass: Specially coated glass can block up to 99% of UV light, significantly extending the life of your framed material. This is essential for preserving delicate works such as watercolors, photographs, and historical documents. Museum Glass: This premium option combines high UV protection with exceptional clarity and minimal reflection, offering the ideal presentation for valuable or irreplaceable pieces. It is, however, the most expensive glass option. Acrylic Standard Acrylic: Lighter and more impact-resistant than glass, standard acrylic is a popular choice for large frames or spaces where weight and safety are concerns. It offers some UV protection but is prone to scratching. UV-Filtering Acrylic: Formulated to block a greater percentage of UV rays, this type of acrylic is excellent for archival framing and valuable works. Anti-Static Acrylic: Especially useful for pastels, charcoal drawings, or textiles, anti-static acrylic prevents the buildup of dust and static that can disturb delicate surfaces. Optical-Grade Acrylic: Offers crystal-clear viewing with virtually no distortion, sometimes rivaling or surpassing museum glass in quality while retaining the lightweight and shatterproof characteristics of acrylic.

Summary: Standard glass is cost-effective but fragile and reflective. Laminated glass adds safety but is heavy. Anti-reflective and conservation glasses provide better viewing and UV protection. Museum glass offers the best clarity and protection but at a premium price. Acrylic (plexiglass) is lightweight, shatterproof, and suitable for large or frequently handled frames but scratches more easily. Upgraded acrylic (museum acrylic) options are like museum glass and have benefits with coatings for UV protection and anti-reflective properties but tend to be more expensive. In Hong Kong, most picture frames use standard glass, acrylic, and upgraded acrylic.

A box frame, also known as a shadow box frame, is a type of picture frame designed to provide extra depth between the artwork and the glass compared to traditional, flat frames. This added space creates a visually striking presentation, ideal for displaying not only flat artwork but also three-dimensional pieces.

Depth: The most distinguishing feature of a box frame is its depth. The frame is constructed with a wide profile, typically ranging from about 1 to 4 inches deep, which allows for greater separation between the glass and the backing. Versatility: Box frames can accommodate a wide range of items, from photographs and prints to objects such as medals, textiles, souvenirs, dried flowers, and memorabilia. Protection: The extra space helps keep the displayed items from directly touching the glass, reducing the risk of damage due to pressure or condensation. Aesthetic Appeal: The recessed look of a box frame creates a sense of dimension and sophistication. It can cast shadows around the artwork or objects, enhancing visual interest.

Consider using a box frame when you want to: Display objects with depth, texture, or layers Protect delicate or dimensional items Create a dramatic, gallery-like presentation Presenting layered artworks, collages, or mixed media pieces Showcasing keepsakes, collections, or objects of sentimental value Framing objects that are not flat, such as medals, baby shoes, or pressed flowers Adding emphasis to minimalist art by creating a floating effect with spacers Box frames are popular for both contemporary and classic interior styles and offer a unique way to highlight your most treasured items.

A picture frame is a structure designed to protect and display artwork, photographs, or other items, enhancing their aesthetic appeal and ensuring longevity. The components and construction of a picture frame vary depending on the type (standard, box frame, or floating frame) and materials, but the core elements remain consistent. Below is a detailed breakdown of the components for a standard picture frame and considerations for use with picture rails or mat boards. Components of a Picture Frame 1. Frame Molding (Frame): Description: The outer structure of the frame, typically made from wood, metal, plastic, or composite materials. It provides the aesthetic border and structural support. Types: Wood: Common for traditional or custom frames; available in finishes like oak, walnut, or painted styles. Metal: Sleek and durable, often used for modern or minimalist designs (e.g., aluminum or steel). Plastic/Composite: Budget-friendly, mimics wood or metal but is lighter and less durable. Key Features: Rabbet: The inner lip or recess that holds the glass, mat, artwork, and backing. Profile: The shape (flat, ornate, or rounded) and depth, which affects appearance and weight capacity. Sizes: Standard sizes (e.g., 8x10, 11x14, or 16x20 inches) or custom-cut for specific artwork. For Box Frames: Deeper moulding (1–3 inches or more) to accommodate 3D objects or thick artwork. 2. Glazing (Glass or Acrylic): Description: The transparent front that protects the artwork from dust, UV light, and physical damage. Types: Glass: Standard, non-reflective, UV-protective, or museum-grade (anti-glare and 99% UV protection). Acrylic/Plexiglass: Lighter, shatter-resistant, often used for large frames or shipping. Available with UV protection or anti-glare coatings. Key Features: Cut to fit the frame’s inner dimensions. Museum-grade glazing protects valuable art from fading (essential for archival pieces with mat boards). For Box Frames: Thicker or stronger glazing may be used to support heavier contents or larger spans. 3. Mat Board: Description: A paper-based board (discussed previously) that surrounds the artwork, creating a border between the artwork and frame. Purpose: Aesthetic: Enhances presentation with color, texture, and spacing. Protective: Prevents artwork from touching the glazing, reducing condensation or sticking risks. Types: Regular: Wood pulp-based, for non-valuable art. Conservation/Archival: Acid-free or 100% cotton rag for long-term preservation. Thickness: 4-ply (1.4 mm, standard) or 8-ply (2–3 mm, for depth in box frames). Sizes: Outer dimensions match the frame (e.g., 16x20 inches); window is cut slightly smaller than the artwork (e.g., 11x14 inches for an 11.5x14.5-inch piece). For Box Frames: May use thicker mats or multiple mats to create depth or shadow effects for 3D objects. 4. Mounting Board/Backing Board: Description: A rigid board behind the artwork to provide support and keep it flat. Types: Foam Core: Lightweight, common for standard frames, available in acid-free options. Corrugated Cardboard: Budget option, not archival. Museum Board: Acid-free, used for valuable art. Purpose: Secures the artwork and fills the frame’s rabbet for a snug fit. For Box Frames: Thicker or custom-cut backing to support heavier or 3D objects, sometimes with spacers to create depth. 5. Artwork or Display Item: Description: The main item being framed (e.g., a photo, print, painting, or 3D object in box frames). Considerations: Must fit within the frame’s dimensions, with or without a mat. Secured to the mounting board using archival tape, hinges, or corner mounts to avoid damage. For Box Frames: May include 3D objects (e.g., medals, textiles) requiring custom mounts, adhesives, or suspension systems. 6. Spacers (Optional): Description: Thin strips or foam inserts placed between the glazing and artwork (or mat) to create space, preventing contact. Use: Common in box frames or conservation framing to protect delicate surfaces (e.g., pastels, charcoal) or to add depth. Materials: Plastic, foam, or wood, often acid-free for archival purposes. 7. Backing Material: Description: The final layer that seals the back of the frame, protecting contents from dust and environmental damage. Types: Paper Dust Cover: Kraft paper adhered to the frame’s back for a clean finish. Foam Core or Cardboard: Additional rigid backing for stability. For Box Frames: Stronger backing (e.g., wood or reinforced foam core) to support heavier contents. 8. Hanging Hardware: Description: Components to hang the frame on a wall or picture rail (as discussed previously). Types: D-Rings or Strap Hangers: Attached to the frame’s back for hanging on hooks or wires. Sawtooth Hangers: For small, lightweight frames. Wire: Stretched between D-rings for wall hanging. Picture Rail Hooks/Cables: For use with picture rail systems, using cords, rods, or adjustable hooks. For Box Frames: Heavier hardware (e.g., heavy-duty D-rings or steel cables) to support increased weight. 9. Frame Fasteners: Description: Hardware to secure the contents within the frame. Types: Glazier Points or Push Points: Metal tabs pushed into the frame’s rabbet to hold the glazing, mat, and backing. Turnbuttons or Clips: Rotatable metal clips for easy access to contents. Screws or Brads: Used in wooden frames for a secure fit. For Box Frames: May require stronger fasteners or custom supports for heavier or deeper contents.

Clean Glazing: Thoroughly clean both sides of the glazing. Mount Artwork: Securely mount the artwork to the backing board (or the back of the mat) using appropriate archival methods. Assemble Layers: Starting from the front, layer the components inside the frame's rabbet: Glazing Mat Board (if used) Artwork (mounted to backing) Backing Board Secure Components: Use flexi-points, framer's points, turn buttons, or offset clips to push down on the backing board and hold all layers snugly in place within the rabbet. Dust Cover (Optional): Apply a paper dust cover to the back of the frame, sealing it to prevent dust and insects from entering. Attach Hanging Hardware: Screw D-rings or other hangers into the frame, and attach picture wire if needed. Label (Optional but Recommended): Add a label with artwork details, artist, and framing date.